Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Geisha

Largely disappeared in the increasingly modern if not advanced world of Japan, one stills seems to have a place in ones memory for the matter of the white-faced geishas.

Recently a friend inquired me if geishas still existed.
The extremely direct answer is that yes they do and I have actually had the luck to see one. But the other answer is that they are not quite like they were from the movie Memoires of a Geisha.

Previously, geishas were more often thought of as high priced whores, also seen in Memoires of a Geisha. But moreover, they got their start as more of an expression of art and entertainment. You see, back in the day, well I suppose it really isn't that far back in the mentalities of most Japanese, but for the purposes of this story you need to go back, back to when men were supreme and women their mere servants and heir bearers (see 50 years ago isn't that far back, but I speak of hundreds). Men of this time were often samurai, as well as butchers, heads of offices, merchants, you name it. The important part is that men were the one with the jobs. This means that men also had positions in the performing arts as well. Well more like every position. Geishas they were. The art of grace and style of beauty actually came from men! Can you believe it?! But the point of all of this was a discussion on the origins of geisha-ism, so with this knowledge you cannot say that the origin of geishas was prostitution (I mean unless there was male geisha prostitution of which I am unlearned).



It was later that women took over the role of being a geisha. Perhaps just for the prostitution aspect? I cannot say. But they would preform for clients with expensive tastes and would often entertain people such as the emperor himself. And men, being the selfish pigs they are, turned these geishas into concubines (one woman is clearly not enough, how dare you speak such heresy). And of course seeing the plethora of job opportunities on the market for entertainment and pleasure acts, geisha brothels did appear. Though I suppose one can argue whether or not these are true geishas at this point. Such was the reaction to these brothels that the city had to institute a number of rules on the whore house perhaps to maintain somewhat of an air of modesty and class to their cities. For example:
  • they limited their existance to specific districts called yukaku 
  • they instituted a rule where no male was allowed to stay there for more than a 24 hour period straight 
  • the employment was not allowed to leave the peremmississ without authority to do so 
  • and the employment was to wear simple died kimonos, to a lesser quality than the finer courtesans

These rules and tight control came upon a time when female geishas were flourishing and daughters were easily given up to a geisha or brothel house. A woman's dowry can be quite expensive you see and women are no cheap things themselves, just compare a woman's and a mans kimono. Please reference the movie again to understand why they were given up and auctioned off...


In today's time, geishas still exist as the exquisite beauties of white face and striking make up. They wear beautiful and elaborate kimonos that must be sweltering with the many layers of fabric. They do still do dance performances as well as tea serving at select tea houses. They are a top dollar commodity, a luxury expense for the wealthy elite. They play instruments, they dance, recite poetry, they sing, write calligraphy, they story-tell, they pour tea; but they are not auctioned off to any bidders with virginity as a price.

Living in the kansai region, a stones throw from Kyoto, I can attest that you can still see many of geisha present there, if you know where to look. By that same factor, I will also be the first to tell you that there is no real geisha scene in Tokyo. I would tell you this because the culture and the traditions as well as the buildings themselves and atmosphere of Kyoto is so well preserved that the modern and technologically advanced Tokyo cannot hold a candle to it. Indeed in Kyoto there are ordinances input to maintain as much historical buildings and areas as possible. Even the atmosphere is important: you know McDonalds red sign with the golden arches? Well because back in the day, they would not have acheived such unnatural colors, they have modified the sign and appearance to be somewhat dulled and the red is a ruddy brown and the golden arches are more or less a bit more golden in appearance.

It is true that many of the 'geishas' you might believe to have met are actually maikos, a younger, less experienced apprentice version of the same thing. At what time a maiko becomes a geisha, I cannot say. It used to be at a certain age, a maiko would graduate into a geisha, but today's skills and requirements tend to vary from ancient times. Others that you might see, especially if they are out and about, are actually tourists, who pay a fee to be dressed up as such and visit the relics of Kyoto.


tourists in dress 


Where to see them? At big events that call for a celebration. I saw them at a recent matsuri (festival) where the pair, a geisha and a maiko put on a beautiful dance.


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