Mochi

Mochi is rice.

Mochi pounding is a special thing and normally a festival type of event during the month of January. Mochi is considered to be representative of healthy and prosperity for the new year...as many things seem to be.
How you make rice into mochi is by pounding cooked rice vigorously until  a sort of dough is made. Occasionally sugar is added to sweeten the mochi and water is used to help make it doughy and less sticky. You can't pound it so well when it sticks to the hammer. Once it is very doughy you take it and put it on a flour bed and pull pieces off to roll into balls.

These balls are then dipped and garnished with various assortments of toppings. You can either make it so that it is sweet or a bit salty. The toppings here are soy and radish for the saltier flavorings, and a type of sweet rice powder, sweet potato and ??? sauce for the sweet flavors. (i never caught the name - ok I just couldn't recognize and remember it - of the mysterious sauce).

Here is a video that illustrates the mochi making process!

Superlatives: a classroom story

Today in class I held a bit of a lottery system deal. If they picked the red chopstick out of the 4 chopsticks ( the others were colored black on the ends) they had to give me a sentence using superlatives.
Initially the target phrase was:
_____________ is ____________er than _____________
something like:
My pencil is longer than your pencil.

Well one of my smarter students shortened the phrase to just say 'than yours'. Which turned into the new revised template that everyone used.
My pencil is longer than yours.

In the earlier classes I would give them subjects that they would know to use, like bags, and pencils, and pencil cases and such, but this class I encouraged them to be more creative. And boy, did I get what I asked for. Here are a few sentences they came up with.

My mother is prettier than yours.
My father is prettier than you.
My hair is more beautiful than yours.( a boy with a buzz)
My life is longer than yours.
My hair is shinier than yours.
My boyfriend is better than yours.
My boyfriend's nose is kinder than yours.
My smile is cuter than Lauren's.

I was laughing so hard by the end of it, my cheeks hurt. I totally asked for this.

In addition since this was the superlatives lesson they discovered the way some say 'Shota' and the way some say 'shorter' are very similar. Therefore when it became Shota's turn:
My name is Shota than yours.

Hahaha what smart kids I have.

Which do you like better? Korea or Japan

This is THE most common question I get after I tell people that I used to live in Korea. This was a popular source of conversation when I first got here (and still is) and informed my school that I have taught before...in Korea. "Ohhhh! So which do you like better? Japan or Korea?"
And now, when I tell people when I went home for Christmas, they kind of think: "well weren't you just there?"And then I have to inform them it has been some time since I have been back to America, since I used to live in Korea. And again. "Ohhhh! So which do you like better? Japan or Korea?"

There is a very short answer to that. And if you know me then you know what it is. There is a reason for all this comparison actually. They have a history, a very unfriendly history. Pretty much, Japan took over and tried to colonize them and they decided they would not just roll over and take it. Surprise. Regardless, there was a war. And I don't know anyone alive who still remembers it but, oh, there is a grudge.
When I was in Korea and went on vacation to Japan. This was a source of criticism for a few of my more narrow-minded Korean friends. "Why? Isn't Korea better?" Don't misunderstand, there are many people who have over come this grudge and like Japan culture. Much of the remaining grudge is still fueled by Dokdo Island.
For anyone who does not know Dokdo island is two smallish lumps of rock they calls islands. If you view this from the other side of the water, they will call it Takeshima island. In other words, you might have guessed it. They fight over a rock.
Let us go over a brief recent history of it. Currently they are administered by the Korean government. Korean Air flew a plane over the island. Japanese diplomats boycotted Korean Air. Now, there is an elder Korean couple living on the island, an octopus fisherman and his wife. And additionally armed forces make frequent visits.

Japan has a similar grudge against Koreans, but theirs is a bit more silly. It is more of a "They don't like us, so we don't like them kind of attitude." (in addition to the Takeshima island thing). This is not a common grudge. There are many Japanese people who like to go to Korea for plastic surgery since it is so cheap there ( especially for the yen). There are even package vacation deals with airlines, hotels, and a clinic visit all included. But there is more to Korea than just these clinics. There are also pop artists and dramas. Girl Generation and KARA are both very popular Korean groups to Japanese teenagers. Dramas are a big thing in both Korea and Japan. But if you ask my opinion, Koreans definitely do a better job and therefore have a strong following in Japan.

All in all, I actually find that their cultures are really quite similar (especially their need to compare themselves to one another - it is not only the Japanese who ask!)...possibly because there was so much Japanese influence of over the years. But there are also many minute differences as well like eating etiquette or social mannerisms. I actually find them a bit difficult in Korea. This could be because I was very green when I first moved there and was very unaccustomed to the new etiquette. And here in Japan I am less like a bull in a China shop. They are also less strict on their customs and more forgiving of gaijins.

Therefore when asked...You should probably hedge the question.

ラーメン: Not your usual Cup of Noodles

One of the things I think is most interesting between America and Japan is the concept of ramen.

First let me give you a bit of history. Ramen was originally a Chinese dish. That is why when you see the word ramen in Japan it is almost always in katakana characters; katakana are used expressly when a thing or name is borrowed from a different culture (hence foreigner names are almost always in katakana). Long ago, Japanese people discovered this dish and loved so much they adopted it into their culture and then proceeded to modify it to make their own original style.

Today there are a great many ramen shops. Where I live there are 3 within walking distance, and I live in no popular area. In Kyoto there is a complete ramen district where many people flock to try many different original flavorings of the local ramen shops. All in competition with one another, they strive hard to make their own dish unique and original in order to gain a following. This is also a popular place to study the art or ramen culture and production.

From the Kyoto ramen shops. Pork fat ramen. It comes in different sizes.

But these are places where the majority of customers are men. It is a cultural thing where women just aren't seen too often here, especially if they have any social standing. For whatever the reason women do not frequent this place, especially not alone; it seems to be more acceptable if they enter in a pack or when accompanied by a man. Speaking of this, there are several 'men's places' that I have come to discover, including: pachinko slots, ramen shops, and arcades. It is also my own personal theory that men frequent karaoke joints more than women too.

There are many different types of ramen. It seems to me that every prefecture has their own special recipe for it. The differences mostly consist of the broth, whether it is soy, miso, pork bone or salt, but there are also a lot of different 'dressings' if you will; there are different vegetables, as well as meats that adorn the ramen. Personally I a fan of both pork bone and miso ramen.
The birth of miso ramen is an interesting one. I read recently that miso ramen was created up near Sapporo Hokkaido and was discovered when some Japanese business men from down south were in a restaurant and the owner saw them dipping their noodles into the miso soup before they ate them. Upon seeing this the restaurant owner decided to experiment with miso soup as a broth for ramen.

A more affluent ramen shop located in Esaka and their delicious pork bone ramen

Wakayama soy based ramen from a wonderful hole in the wall ramen shop.

In addition to the difference of ramen culture, there is also a difference in instant ramen culture as well. The ever familiar and popular cuisine of many college students, might not quite be the same as your favorite brand from across the pond. During my time here, I have not seen a single familiar brand of instant ramen  that I favorited back in America (though I am pretty sure Cup Noodle is here, I just haven't seen it yet since others are more popular).

In addition to the pop culture dish, there is also a dedicated museum

Burn Baby Burn!

This weekend will be very bright and warm for those who are attending any shrines.

Dondo yaki (どんど焼き) is held around the 15th of January ( which might I add used to be the day that the Coming of Age ceremony was held on until the year 2000)and is typically on a Sunday . On this day people bring their New Years decorations such as their  shimekazari to shrines to have them burned. At this time they will also burn any of the bad fortunes that are tied around the temple. Symbolically this is seen as breaking with the past and progressing with the new year. It is also seen to bring luck in the new year, as well as to send off toshigami. Toshigami are thought to be deities related to bringing in the new year or also spirits of ancestors passed. Some people have alters in their home where the toshigami reside until the New Year. For the remainder of the year they will adorn the alter with fresh fruits and such as presents for the toshigami.

Often when the burning is in process mochi is given out like marshmellows for roasting. This idea behind this is to sweeten your mouth so that you only say sweet and nice things in the new year.

Drink. Smoke. Party

Let us now enter adulthood.
This year on January 9th all people who are or will turn 20 between the days of April 1st of 2011 and April 1st of 2012 officially become an adult. This is like turning 18 and 21 in the same day for us Americans. As of this year they are, now allowed to smoke, drink, and vote.

The celebration is called Seijin no hi and is held on the second Monday of January. These new adults often go to the local government offices where the ceremonies are held. At these ceremonies speeches and presents are given to the new members of society. It is celebrated with women being dressed up in what is likely the most elaborate kimono, called furisode, they have worn thus far and this hair intricately done up. Men also will wear kimonos and hakama; though more recently modern men's Western-style suits have been preferred ( I wonder if it's warmer?)

Previously in the Edo period the Coming of age ceremony was held for different age groups for men and women: age 15 for men and 13 for women. In the Edo period they would celebrate this day for men by cutting their bangs. Feature in the first picture below, and they will cut it off, or shave it back, to have a samurai styled hair (second picture). 

 

On this day 13 year old Edo period women would in turn dye their teeth black in celebration of adulthood. 

It wasn't until 1876 that the government decided to change the age of adulthood to age 20 for both men and women, likely due to the onslaught of westernization. 

BIcycle BIcycle BIcycle

One of the more amusing things about my morning is seeing the men suited up and riding bikes.

Japan is a very bike based community. I feel like most everyone has a bike and in some cases they have them in multiple. Since when you live in a town everything is relatively close together and easy to get to, owning a bike makes things really convenient. It saves you the quick yen you would spend on a bus or subway and often will get you places a bit faster. However with the surplus of bicycles, is the frequency they get stolen. The whole scenario has a very university campus feel to it; the closeness of everything; the necessity of having a bike; and of course the thievery of them. Though I think Japan is a bit better on the thieving part. But occasionally if you find that you did not properly lock your bike it might be missing or if left there for days it might be a tire lighter. Luckily there are many security people and cameras to prevent just that. In addition every bike is registered with the police so that if they do find it, it can be returned to you.

Whenever I ride my bike I feel like a troll in comparison. Simply they can carry umbrellas; ride with no hands, text and manouver their bike through a crowd; and one of the more spectacular things to me is the mommy mobile, or the mama-chari. On these special mounts there is less dexterity but higher endurance. There are either one or two seats mounted to the front or back of the bike, or both in some cases, where children ride. Not only can there be up to three passengers, two of them are often asleep; which might be the more amazing feat with the jostling of the bike and the amount of foot traffic they must encounter. If you were to ride your bike with someone who is not child sized, say a friend or boy/girl friend, it would not be considered legal and you can get fined for that. That isn't to say that this doesn't happen anyways. There is often a bar just above the back wheel, usually a basket can be mounted there to make shopping more convenient, however when the basket is remove it leaves an excellent back seat just the right size for a friend. Additionally there are spokes that you can buy that stick out of your tires that allow someone to stand on them and hold on to the rider.

And just a caution that  the above mentions of the umbrella carrying and texting while riding are also fine-able; though personally I think they are impressive. I have yet to see anyone get fined from this but I have heard of cases where it has happened.

Happy New Year from Japan!

Happy shogatsu everyone!
New Years (正月) is a special time in Japan and the celebrations can last up to 10 days.

One of the special things about New Years in Japan is the sending of nengajo, or New Years cards. These are mailed from mid to late December so that they reach their destination on the right day: January 1st, of course. However, if a family member has died in the previous year, the decorations are removed from the home and cards are sent out to tell people not to send them any cards the following year. These cards are more like postcards than the hallmark cards you see in America and often feature the zodiac of the coming year (this coming year is dragon) along with well wishings of health and fortune


Another important feature of the majority of homes in the new year is a type of straw decoration that features a kind of leaf and a mandarin orange called shimekazari. These adornments are not only prevalent to houses but also temples and shrines as well as departments stores, which are typically more fashioned like kadomatsu.

shimekazari

kadomatsu

January 1st is quite literally rung in on December 31st with the ringing of a bell 108 times to ward off the evil spirits at the local Buddhist temples. A particularly famous location to see this is at a temple in Kyoto called Chion-in. This day is called omisoka (New Years Eve) and the accompanying ritual is called osiouji, translated as "the big clean-up." This is also done in homes in the days preceding the New Year; homes are thoroughly cleaned and many things which are not often used or have grown old are thrown out. It is a long arduous process with which "spring cleaning" does not really compare. Once accomplished, shimekazari are often hung at the door frames of the clean homes. This is to represent purity and to ward off evil. Kadomatsu are also a representation of the New Year and are typically festive and ornate decorations of bamboo which are often seen at entrances to establishments to bring good fortune with the New Year.

Starting at midnight following these events, is perhaps any given shrine experiences its most popular day as people flock to it for hatsumode, to cleanse themselves as well as pray for the new year and receive their fortunes for the new year. Fortunes are obtained by either a random drawing of personal choice or via lotto numbers written on sticks that are received from a wooden barrel (you shake the barrel until a stick comes out and you show the stick and number written on it to a monk who then gives you your fortune).

Ok So you either draw from the first box or use the barrels next to the man in the second picture to get your fortune in the third picture. This piece of paper unravels to tell you pretty much everything you want to know in the coming year: love life, house, money, lawyers, health, car stuff and there is more too!

However! if its bad then...

you leave it at the shrine to later be burned! So that you can get rid of your misfortune.

Another interesting activity at shrines is the casting off of arrows. Red and gold decorative arrows are purchased at this time during the year. The arrow is said to bring fortune. The following year at the same time you leave the arrow at the temple and purchase a new one.

Above is the casting off of the old years arrow and the purchasing of a new one

Another New Years decoration to appease the deceased and other spirits

Food is also a very important feature of the New Year and many custom dishes are prepared and eaten at this time to bring a variety of influences for the new year (such as health and prosperity... )

One of the things I was actually able to make and sample for myself, was a type of fish based soup that had lots of vegetable and root based ingredients called ozoni. Another was a mochi soup. My third year students at my JHS made a sweet red bean mochi soup that I found really delicious! Also common are New Years bentos, to welcome in the New Year with a large special meal. It typically contains a large variety of things and is quite a bit more expensive than any normal bento. Finally on the 7th day of the New Year (January 7th) a type of porridge called 7 herb porridge is eaten. This dish is called jinjitsu.

 

New Years bento, New Years soup, 7 herb porridge

Lastly, this is a special holiday for children. They receive something called otoshidama, which loosely translates to gifts of money or presents that are usually given by the elderly to their grandchildren. This feature of the New Year is a bit reminiscent of the Chinese custom where on lunar new year they present children with a red envelope filled with a large sum of money.